The cosmetics company POLA ORBIS HOLDINGS INC. (then known as POLA Cosmetics Headquarters) established the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture on May 15, 1976, with the aim of academically researching cosmetics. Since then, the institute has continued to collect, preserve, research, and promote materials related to cosmetic culture up to the present day. A facility to introduce the collected materials and accumulated knowledge has opened in Minami-Aoyama, Minato City. The Cosmetic Culture Gallery, launched as the new base of the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture on May 15, 2024, not only showcases exhibitions and books on cosmetic culture but also conducts programs such as lecture events and workshops. On this occasion, we were guided through the facility's unique features and initiatives by Nishihara Taeko, the manager of the Cosmetic Culture Gallery, and Watanabe Michiyo, a curator at the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture.

The Cosmetic Culture Gallery is located on the first floor of the POLA Aoyama Building, just a 2-minute walk from Aoyama-itchome Station and a 5-minute walk from Gaiemmae Station. At the entrance in the right back corner of the lobby, visitors are greeted by a cutout of a noblewoman reminiscent of Marie Antoinette. The gallery is open on Thursdays and Fridays, but note that Thursdays are by reservation only. The facility is divided into two areas: Art and Books. In the Books area, large bookshelves display a collection of books related to cosmetics.

According to Nishihara, when the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture was first established in 1976, its initial task was to extract and compile scenes and descriptions related to cosmetics from various documents. "At a time when makeup was generally considered something superficial and materialistic, the curators back then had a firm belief that makeup was an integral part of human culture. They diligently identified and highlighted sections related to makeup from a variety of documents," says Nishihara.

Excerpts extracted from stories such as Uji Shūi Monogatari from the Kamakura period and old senryu (satiric and humorous poems) from the Edo period have been compiled into a book as a chronological table of cosmetic history, which can also be read at the Cosmetic Culture Gallery.

For example, a passage from Manyoshu, Japan's oldest anthology of poems and the source of the era name “Reiwa,” reads: “It was in new spring, in a fair (rei) month when the air was clear and the wind a gentle (wa) breeze. Plum flowers blossomed a beauty's charming white, and the fragrance of the orchids was their sweet perfume.” This passage is directly related to cosmetics. Here, the plum blossoms are likened to face powder applied by a beautiful woman before a mirror, and the orchids symbolize the fragrance that adorns her attire.

The POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture has also compiled modern cosmetic culture and published it as books. “The first book was structured as a chronological compilation extracted from various documents, but to make it easier for people to understand cosmetics as a readable material, we published books covering the modern period from the Meiji to Showa eras, and the 30 years transitioning from Heisei to Reiwa (with a different taste). These can be read as a comprehensive history of cosmetic culture,” says Nishihara.

In Heisei Beauty Blossoms, the shifting perspectives of women toward cosmetics are explained with illustrations for easier understanding. It also presents years of survey results in data form. For the production of this publication, the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture analyzed 30 years' worth of women's magazines, extracted relevant cosmetic-related words, and compiled a database of approximately 10,000 entries as the foundation for planning and editing. Incidentally, Nishihara was in charge of Fujin Gahō, while Watanabe was responsible for nicola. What an incredible undertaking!

In 1978, the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture launched is, a comprehensive magazine on beauty and culture, followed by the research journal Cosmetic Culture in 1979. The back issues of these publications can be freely read in the Books area. The institute’s collection includes about 10,000 volumes, including rare 18th-century books. “If you have any questions for the curators, they are available for discussions or lectures, and if there is a book not on the shelf, you can request it, and we will bring it from the closed stacks,” says Nishihara.

Additionally, the bookshelves also house back issues of women’s and fashion magazines. Comparing the evolution of makeup and fashion across different eras sounds like an enjoyable experience.

Currently, the Cosmetic Culture Gallery is hosting its opening project titled The Aesthetics of Beginnings. This exhibition introduces the culture of cosmetics through three themes with “beginnings” as the keyword. Following the first phase, The Beginnings of Cosmetic Culture Research (May 16, 2024 – August 30, 2024), the second phase will be The Beginnings of Cosmetics (September 5, 2024 – December 13, 2024), and the third phase will be First Makeup (December 19, 2024 – March 28, 2025). Each phase will feature related selections on the bookshelves in the Books area. Watanabe Michiyo, the curator who planned the project, explains, “We wanted to present the gallery’s appeal by setting a common theme. It also signifies the restart of our activities, so we chose the theme ‘beginnings’ to structure Art & Books around it.”

In the Art area, which serves as the exhibition space, displays aligned with The Aesthetics of Beginnings are being showcased. “The first phase centers around the Edo-period wedding cosmetic tools collected during the early days of the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture, accompanied by ukiyo-e depicting scenes of makeup and weddings. This allows visitors to understand how these cosmetic tools were used. The theme is The Beginnings of Cosmetic Culture Research, so the aim is to let visitors experience the research process we undergo. For the second phase, with the theme The Beginnings of Cosmetics, we present a more diverse collection that goes beyond the Edo period, tracing back to primordial makeup and showcasing cosmetic tools used in ancient Egypt and Greece,” says Watanabe.

The POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture houses approximately 6,500 items, from which themed exhibits are displayed. Visitors can see rare items up close, such as a faience kohl jar used to store two colors of kohl from ancient Egypt and a unique fish-shaped stone palette, which provide insights into the origins of cosmetics.

The various exhibits offer an opportunity to reflect on the ancient culture of cosmetics. “Ancient makeup is not just a phenomenon of its time. The beauty ideals and the significance of makeup held by people back then are still relevant to us today. I hope visitors will view the exhibits and experience this firsthand,” says Watanabe.

Starting December 19, 2024, the third phase, First Makeup, will begin. “In the Edo period, certain rites of passage involved makeup, such as shaving the eyebrows or applying black tooth dye once a person reached a certain age. Hairstyles also varied between unmarried and married women. We plan to explore these significant moments in life and their associated first experiences with makeup,” Watanabe adds.

In addition to the Art and Books areas, the Cosmetic Culture Gallery introduces the culture of cosmetics through programs such as lecture events, workshops, and references. One highly recommended experience for visitors is the BEAUTY TRIP app, an interactive tool using the latest digital technology. Developed by the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture, this app functions like the photo stand-ins often seen at tourist sites, allowing users to transform into beauties from various eras, such as Western noblewomen, Edo-period courtesans, or midai-dokoro (noblewomen of high rank). To start, users select their preferred painting on a provided tablet. The author chose a portrait of a lady from the Elizabethan era.

By capturing an image of the face with the tablet's camera and adjusting the position, the app applies the distinctive makeup of that era directly onto the user’s image. Everything from blush and lipstick to the characteristic white base makeup is faithfully reproduced, even allowing for brightness adjustments for a realistic effect that feels as if one has stepped into a painting. Users can save the resulting image on their smartphones, making it a fun activity to enjoy with friends or colleagues.

Programs such as BEAUTY TRIP, lecture events, workshops, and references require reservations, so be sure to check the official POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture website. The Cosmetic Culture Gallery welcomes a wide range of visitors, including students, working adults, researchers, and notable figures. With its recent opening in Minami-Aoyama, the number of casual visitors has also been increasing. Watanabe shares, “I think makeup is a familiar practice for many people, but within that practice lies a profound world of cosmetic culture. I hope people will visit the gallery, see, read, and experience things that will help them discover the fun and interest of cosmetic culture.”

Nishihara adds, “I’d love for those who simply enjoy beautiful and interesting things to visit as well. I envision this gallery as a place that even about 70% of middle school students in Minato City might know about and choose as a fun place to visit.” With the growing attention on the cultural aspects of cosmetics, why not visit the Cosmetic Culture Gallery, which is enjoyable for people of all ages?

POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture: Cosmetic Culture Gallery
Location: 1F, POLA Aoyama Building, 2-5-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato City, Tokyo, inside the POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture
Open Days: Thursdays and Fridays (closed on public holidays and year-end/New Year holidays). Note: Thursdays require reservations.
Opening Hours: 11:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)
Admission: Free
For more details, please visit the official website:
https://www.cosmetic-culture.po-holdings.co.jp/gallery/