What is the bond between Akasaka Hikawa Shrine and the local community? The wishes behind the 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival,' where mikoshi and Edo-style floats parade through the procession
You can now faintly sense the signs of autumn in the morning and evening breeze. The Minato City Tourism Association has selected recommended autumn festivals to visit during this season. For the second installment, we introduce the "Akasaka Hikawa Festival," held every September at Akasaka Hikawa Shrine located in Akasaka 6-chome, Minato-ku, Tokyo. The highlight of this year's festival is the solemn Mikoshi and the combined parade of two Edo-style floats. Akasaka Hikawa Shrine, located in the heart of a big city, conveys over a thousand years of history and the scenes of the Edo period. We spoke with Chief Priest Yoshitaka Ekawa about its deep history and the passionate dedication it has to the festival and the community.
The shrine buildings that preserve the scenery of Edo and the giant ginkgo trees that survived the war.
The current shrine building was built in Kyōhō 14 (1729)
—First, could you tell us about the key points you would like visitors to Akasaka Hikawa Shrine to focus on, and what are the highlights of the shrine building?
"Our shrine building is a very precious item in Tokyo, preserved in its original form from the Edo period. It was built by order of Lord Tokugawa Yoshimune, but at that time, the 'Kyōhō Reforms' were a harsh social climate where frugality was valued. Therefore, the structure is simple and without lavish decorations. On the other hand, since it was built by order of the shogunate, the decorations of the shrine building, such as cloud-shaped timber and rafters, combine dynamism with delicacy. Although the general public cannot view it from the outside, inside the shrine buildings is a dazzling ceiling painting dedicated by Chokegai in 1929 (Showa 4) to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the relocation."
"Our shrine building is a very precious item in Tokyo, preserved in its original form from the Edo period. It was built by order of Lord Tokugawa Yoshimune, but at that time, the 'Kyōhō Reforms' were a harsh social climate where frugality was valued. Therefore, the structure is simple and without lavish decorations. On the other hand, since it was built by order of the shogunate, the decorations of the shrine building, such as cloud-shaped timber and rafters, combine dynamism with delicacy. Although the general public cannot view it from the outside, inside the shrine buildings is a dazzling ceiling painting dedicated by Chokegai in 1929 (Showa 4) to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the relocation."
The grounds are densely covered with trees.
—I was also amazed by the rich nature.
"Once you step into the temple grounds, you'll see dense trees and the Nobunaga Wall, a fence called the 'Nobunaga Wall.' Despite being in Akasaka, a modern city, you can strongly feel the old-fashioned Edo scenery that hasn't been much altered. Many modern shrines have beautifully maintained stone pavements, but even at our shrine, even a single stone pavement can be slightly off. Some may say it's old-fashioned, but on the other hand, I think the fact that the old scenery remains intact is a unique highlight."
"Once you step into the temple grounds, you'll see dense trees and the Nobunaga Wall, a fence called the 'Nobunaga Wall.' Despite being in Akasaka, a modern city, you can strongly feel the old-fashioned Edo scenery that hasn't been much altered. Many modern shrines have beautifully maintained stone pavements, but even at our shrine, even a single stone pavement can be slightly off. Some may say it's old-fashioned, but on the other hand, I think the fact that the old scenery remains intact is a unique highlight."
A giant ginkgo tree estimated to be 450 years old, with scorched marks
—So the Edo period appearance has truly been preserved. I believe the large ginkgo tree towering on the temple grounds is a symbol that conveys that history, but could you tell us about this history as well?
"The site of the shrine in Akasaka, where the shrine is now located, was the residence of Yosen-in, the official wife of Asano Takumi-no-kami, 300 years ago. Large ginkgo trees have been growing here since then. In fact, if you go to the back of these ginkgo trees, you'll see that most of the tree trunk is absent. During the war, it was damaged by incendiary bombs during air raids, and scorch marks remain to this day. A few years ago, experts investigated and found that 87% of the contents were hollow, and the remaining 13% of the trunk is still alive. I don't know how long it will last, but it is a precious tree that has watched over the entire town of Akasaka from a hill since ancient times. When I was a child, a restaurant owner from Akasaka would come to pick up ginkgo nuts that had fallen on the shrine grounds and serve them in the dishes."
"The site of the shrine in Akasaka, where the shrine is now located, was the residence of Yosen-in, the official wife of Asano Takumi-no-kami, 300 years ago. Large ginkgo trees have been growing here since then. In fact, if you go to the back of these ginkgo trees, you'll see that most of the tree trunk is absent. During the war, it was damaged by incendiary bombs during air raids, and scorch marks remain to this day. A few years ago, experts investigated and found that 87% of the contents were hollow, and the remaining 13% of the trunk is still alive. I don't know how long it will last, but it is a precious tree that has watched over the entire town of Akasaka from a hill since ancient times. When I was a child, a restaurant owner from Akasaka would come to pick up ginkgo nuts that had fallen on the shrine grounds and serve them in the dishes."
Inari and 'Enmusubi' prayers related to Katsu Kaishu
In 1898 (Meiji 31), the four Inari shrines were combined to enshrine the four Inari shrines, forming the Shigo Inari and Komainu
—Could you also tell us about the guardian lion-dogs on the temple grounds and your connection to Katsu Kaishu?
"Normally, shrines have one or two pairs of guardian lioness, but this shrine has seven pairs, each dedicated for festivals and ceremonies. The oldest is a guardian lion-dog from Enpō 3 (1675), which is stocky and cute in shape. From there, it gradually becomes sharper, and at Shishiyama, it becomes a parent and son guardian dog, showing changes in fashion and techniques over time. Also, Akasaka is the place where Katsu Kaishu spent much of his life. It is said that people visited the shrine for worship, sword training, or to escape assassins. Within the shrine grounds is an inari shrine called 'Shigo Inari,' which was also named by Katsu Kaishu. In the past, the four Inari shrines that were enshrined in the many samurai residences in Akasaka were entrusted to them, and since they were enshrined together like apartment buildings, the name Shigo Inari was chosen by combining the meaning of 'enshrinement of the four shrines,' 'aligning aspirations,' and 'happiness of happiness.' The plaque bears Katsu Kaishu's own handwriting."
"Normally, shrines have one or two pairs of guardian lioness, but this shrine has seven pairs, each dedicated for festivals and ceremonies. The oldest is a guardian lion-dog from Enpō 3 (1675), which is stocky and cute in shape. From there, it gradually becomes sharper, and at Shishiyama, it becomes a parent and son guardian dog, showing changes in fashion and techniques over time. Also, Akasaka is the place where Katsu Kaishu spent much of his life. It is said that people visited the shrine for worship, sword training, or to escape assassins. Within the shrine grounds is an inari shrine called 'Shigo Inari,' which was also named by Katsu Kaishu. In the past, the four Inari shrines that were enshrined in the many samurai residences in Akasaka were entrusted to them, and since they were enshrined together like apartment buildings, the name Shigo Inari was chosen by combining the meaning of 'enshrinement of the four shrines,' 'aligning aspirations,' and 'happiness of happiness.' The plaque bears Katsu Kaishu's own handwriting."
The knife-shaped mound built by the Akasaka Aoyama Food and Beverage Association in 1974 (Showa 49)
—One unique highlight is the 'Knife Mound.'
"In the past, there were about 200 restaurants in Akasaka. They believed it was unbearable to simply throw away knives filled with soul, so they were originally meant to be delivered to temples, but because of their deep ties with the community, the food and beverage association built a knife mound and stored knives on the grounds. We still receive inquiries, but currently, we only accept one-time offerings. Instead, we hold an annual ritual called the 'Knife Mound Festival' as a token of gratitude."
"In the past, there were about 200 restaurants in Akasaka. They believed it was unbearable to simply throw away knives filled with soul, so they were originally meant to be delivered to temples, but because of their deep ties with the community, the food and beverage association built a knife mound and stored knives on the grounds. We still receive inquiries, but currently, we only accept one-time offerings. Instead, we hold an annual ritual called the 'Knife Mound Festival' as a token of gratitude."
Enyui, where seasonal washi paper is tied and wishes come true, called 'Enyui' (Matchmaking of Love).
—In terms of community connections, you also work to cultivate madder. Furthermore, while it is known as one of the "Three Great Matchmaking Shrines in Tokyo," I heard that nighttime "Enmusubi Pilgrimage" is also very popular.
"Yes. We cultivate madder, considered one of the origin of the name Akasaka, together with local elementary schools and organizations. This is not for the purpose of growing the grass itself, but to help people learn about Akasaka's history and develop a sense of attachment to the community. Our goshuin (temple stamps) are made from a desire to keep the authenticity of the plants we use, so we use not only the madder we grow but also fallen leaves and dead branches within the shrine grounds as raw materials for plant-dyeing, and we are particular about not using anything not within the shrine grounds. Regarding matchmaking, I believe it naturally came to be called that because many people have prayed and received connections from long ago. Although the shrine is not officially called the 'Three Great Enmusubi Shrines,' we serve with the belief that the gods will support everyone's efforts from behind. The 'Enmusubi Mairi' is a monthly prayer held at night for those who cannot visit during the day, and it has continued for about 20 years. Every month, the place fills up as soon as reception opens at 9 a.m., and so far, thousands of people have received prayers.
"Yes. We cultivate madder, considered one of the origin of the name Akasaka, together with local elementary schools and organizations. This is not for the purpose of growing the grass itself, but to help people learn about Akasaka's history and develop a sense of attachment to the community. Our goshuin (temple stamps) are made from a desire to keep the authenticity of the plants we use, so we use not only the madder we grow but also fallen leaves and dead branches within the shrine grounds as raw materials for plant-dyeing, and we are particular about not using anything not within the shrine grounds. Regarding matchmaking, I believe it naturally came to be called that because many people have prayed and received connections from long ago. Although the shrine is not officially called the 'Three Great Enmusubi Shrines,' we serve with the belief that the gods will support everyone's efforts from behind. The 'Enmusubi Mairi' is a monthly prayer held at night for those who cannot visit during the day, and it has continued for about 20 years. Every month, the place fills up as soon as reception opens at 9 a.m., and so far, thousands of people have received prayers.
Connecting Akasaka's Future Through the Revival of Mikoshi and Floats
Akasaka Hikawa Shrine, which has deep ties with the local community
— Could you also tell us about your own background, Chief Priest Ekawa? I heard you worked at a general company in the past. Could you tell us about your journey to inherit the shrine?
"I am the second son, and since my older brother was supposed to inherit the shrine, I initially thought I would never be involved with the shrine and joined a general company in the distribution industry. After working as a buyer, I became a full-time officer of the labor union and eventually served as vice chairman. It was an extremely harsh day, with only 4~5 hours of sleep each day, but I deeply learned the spirit of cooperative activities that involve cooperation not just by orders. However, about 12 years ago, my brother passed away, and I was the one to inherit the shrine. After much agonizing, I remember as if it were yesterday when I submitted my resignation in front of the then-union chairman. Although I was anxious about moving to a different environment, the experience I gained in the labor union of "working together with everyone" has been very useful in serving at the shrine and running festivals. Currently, the Akasaka area has very strong horizontal connections, including local company presidents and shopping street residents, and we affectionately call it a "village," reflecting the deeply rooted spirit of mutual support.
"I am the second son, and since my older brother was supposed to inherit the shrine, I initially thought I would never be involved with the shrine and joined a general company in the distribution industry. After working as a buyer, I became a full-time officer of the labor union and eventually served as vice chairman. It was an extremely harsh day, with only 4~5 hours of sleep each day, but I deeply learned the spirit of cooperative activities that involve cooperation not just by orders. However, about 12 years ago, my brother passed away, and I was the one to inherit the shrine. After much agonizing, I remember as if it were yesterday when I submitted my resignation in front of the then-union chairman. Although I was anxious about moving to a different environment, the experience I gained in the labor union of "working together with everyone" has been very useful in serving at the shrine and running festivals. Currently, the Akasaka area has very strong horizontal connections, including local company presidents and shopping street residents, and we affectionately call it a "village," reflecting the deeply rooted spirit of mutual support.
The Miyako is eight times heavier than a regular mikoshi
――The "Akasaka Hikawa Festival," which starts on September 11, is held in collaboration with local residents. Please tell us about the history and your thoughts on the festival.
"Akasaka Hikawa Shrine was originally located near Akasaka Mitsuke, but by order of Lord Tokugawa Yoshimune, it was relocated to its current location. Under the patronage of Lord Yoshimune and Lord Ieshige, the 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' held a special status at the time, being called one of the 'Three Great Festivals of Edo.' After the war, the shrine mikoshi and Edo-style floats had been lost, but in 2006 (Heisei 18), the Akasaka Hikawa Float Preservation Society was established, and activities toward the revival of the floats began. Then, in 2016 (Heisei 28), the 300th anniversary of Lord Yoshimune's appointment as shogun, the shrine portable shrine was restored and newly made, marking the first joint parade of the shrine mikoshi and Edo-style floats in about 100 years. At first, there were skeptics about restoring and reconstructing a large shrine portable shrine that weighs eight times as much as a regular neighborhood association mikoshi, and restoring and restoring the remaining floats for a parade, but by accomplishing one big thing together, a deep bond was formed with the community. In recent years, the number of high-rise apartments has increased, and connections between neighborhood associations and other communities have been weakening, but with festivals, even newly movers can easily participate. One of the goals for making the 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' bigger is to make people acquaintance through the festival and foster the spirit of 'mutual assistance,' which comes after self-help.
"Akasaka Hikawa Shrine was originally located near Akasaka Mitsuke, but by order of Lord Tokugawa Yoshimune, it was relocated to its current location. Under the patronage of Lord Yoshimune and Lord Ieshige, the 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' held a special status at the time, being called one of the 'Three Great Festivals of Edo.' After the war, the shrine mikoshi and Edo-style floats had been lost, but in 2006 (Heisei 18), the Akasaka Hikawa Float Preservation Society was established, and activities toward the revival of the floats began. Then, in 2016 (Heisei 28), the 300th anniversary of Lord Yoshimune's appointment as shogun, the shrine portable shrine was restored and newly made, marking the first joint parade of the shrine mikoshi and Edo-style floats in about 100 years. At first, there were skeptics about restoring and reconstructing a large shrine portable shrine that weighs eight times as much as a regular neighborhood association mikoshi, and restoring and restoring the remaining floats for a parade, but by accomplishing one big thing together, a deep bond was formed with the community. In recent years, the number of high-rise apartments has increased, and connections between neighborhood associations and other communities have been weakening, but with festivals, even newly movers can easily participate. One of the goals for making the 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' bigger is to make people acquaintance through the festival and foster the spirit of 'mutual assistance,' which comes after self-help.
Edo-style floats are on display within the temple grounds
—Also, as your next goal, I hear you are aiming for multiple float parades in preparation for the 300th anniversary of the relocation in 2030. Finally, could you share a message for readers and visitors to shrines?
"As we celebrate the 300th anniversary of the shrine's construction in 2030, our major goal is to safely and simultaneously have all eight restored floats processed. This year's 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' will be centered around the shrine mikoshi, and for the Shinko Festival on September 13, a joint procession of shrine processions, shrine mikoshi, and two Edo-style floats is planned. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the restoration and creation of the shrine mikoshi and the 20th anniversary of the establishment of the float preservation society. There is a saying, "Harmony is what is precious," and I hope you will feel firsthand the passion of the festival, where people from different backgrounds come together and cooperate together. The shrine itself is a place of prayer that calms the heart. It shows the changing scenes of the four seasons, such as sunlight filtering through the fresh green trees, ginkgo trees dyed in autumn leaves for a short period, and sometimes the tranquility wrapped in snow. Please spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of daily life and find peace among the shrine buildings and dense forests that remain from Edo."
"As we celebrate the 300th anniversary of the shrine's construction in 2030, our major goal is to safely and simultaneously have all eight restored floats processed. This year's 'Akasaka Hikawa Festival' will be centered around the shrine mikoshi, and for the Shinko Festival on September 13, a joint procession of shrine processions, shrine mikoshi, and two Edo-style floats is planned. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the restoration and creation of the shrine mikoshi and the 20th anniversary of the establishment of the float preservation society. There is a saying, "Harmony is what is precious," and I hope you will feel firsthand the passion of the festival, where people from different backgrounds come together and cooperate together. The shrine itself is a place of prayer that calms the heart. It shows the changing scenes of the four seasons, such as sunlight filtering through the fresh green trees, ginkgo trees dyed in autumn leaves for a short period, and sometimes the tranquility wrapped in snow. Please spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of daily life and find peace among the shrine buildings and dense forests that remain from Edo."
[Akasaka Hikawa Shrine & Akasaka Hikawa Festival]
Event period: September 11 (Fri) ~ 15 (Tue), 2026
September 11 (Fri) Eve Palace Parade
September 12 (Sat) Children's Parade
September 13 (Sun) Shinko Festival
September 15 (Tue) Annual Festival
https://www.akasakahikawa.or.jp/hikawasai-r08/
Event period: September 11 (Fri) ~ 15 (Tue), 2026
September 11 (Fri) Eve Palace Parade
September 12 (Sat) Children's Parade
September 13 (Sun) Shinko Festival
September 15 (Tue) Annual Festival
https://www.akasakahikawa.or.jp/hikawasai-r08/